Route Setting

Post-comp decompression

There are 20 new routes up in the expansion right now.  12 from the SCS kids competition – they will probably feel a lot stouter than our usual grades.  They are all very techy and sequential, and grow progressively more difficult the higher you go.  I’m hoping they’re all fairly adult friendly.

There are also 8 new routes that we slammed up immediately post-comp in the 5.9-5.11- range.  We’re still a few routes shy, but we’ll get them filled in over the next few weeks.  This past week we took two days to reset the small bouldering cave in the old gym.  It’s an easier set than normal, but the problems are all fun… enjoy!

We have a new setter intern from thailand working with us.  He’ll be here for two weeks.  Be sure to look out for Ooan’s tag and give us some feedback.  He’s picking up lots of tips and tricks for his gym back home.

We’re also getting new flooring in the small bouldering cave this wednesday night.  We will be closing that area a little early to start work on it, but the bouldering in the expansion will still be available.

Expansion bouldering is going to be reset this wednesday!

-Brent Ng

Head routesetter

Posted by Brent NG in Blog Post, Route Setting, 0 comments

New Routes up!

We put up 15 new routes this week in the gym.  Today, Dallas (D-tron or Dally as we all now want to rename him) stitched up a nice resistance rig on the right side of tsumani, which will probably fall in the 12+ category.  It’s a great trainer!  Look for the pink tape.  TJ also put up a nice techy 11- route under one of the auto belays.  Really fun and wandery – check it out to the left of the thunderball wall.   Get ready to mantle!

There are currently a total of 108 routes up in the gym, 42 of which are in the expansion.  The steep bouldering cave was reset this past week as well and we did some fill-in on the lower advanced problems, which we were lacking.  It’s a stiff set, but there’s some creative stuff up.  Check out Sean Drolet’s light blue compression sloper fest if you’re pushing the elite-/elite grade, it’s gotten some rave reviews.

Also – other exciting news in the office today – two of our employees have recently learned that they made it into hueco guide training.  Congrats to Jen Herling and Steph Marvez. That’s practically more exciting than winning a brand new car.  We’ll be demanding many trips from you two in hueco!   I have attached below a picture of the two of them, spontaneously caught in the height of their excitement.

They Toyota Jump

Next week we have the regional SCS competition held here on Saturday, May 11th.  We, unfortunately, have to close the expansion half of the gym for setting, beginning on wednesday may 8th.  The entire gym will be closed on Friday and Saturday, May 10-11th.  Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

On a good note, however, we’ll have loads of kid-sized routes for our climbing teams to train on afterwards.  Good luck to all the competitors!

We also plan on filling in immediately post comp, so there will be a lot of new routes (adult-friendly) come in and try on sunday.

-Brent Ng, Head Routesetter

Posted by Brent NG in Route Setting, 0 comments

He Did It!

Just wanted to give a round of applause to one of our route setters:
Jonathan Siegrist

His most recent accomplishment is at Smith Rocks, on ‘Just Do It’ (5.14c)… Well he just did it!
Check out the news flash at Climbing Magazine Online.
or check out his blog posts at:
Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Route Setting, 0 comments

Number of routes at BRC

Hi Everyone,

I wanted to post the latest and greatest from the route setters at the Rock Club. We have a grand total of 113 routes in here ranging from 5.6 to 5.13+. From the last two setting days, we put up 13 new routes from 5.10 to 5.13-. Tomorrow, expect a whole bunch of boulder problems in the original bouldering area! Come in and check them out!
T-nut
Posted by Hank Pantier in Route Setting, 0 comments

BSC Mock Comp Today

Hey Everyone!

Comp season is in full effect, and we wanted to make sure we had a great BCS comp next month by having a little mock comp today. The BRC setters set 10 new routes today starting at 5.10 and going up to 5.13, so come on in and climb on some new routes. Remember. We will have a bunch of volumes from motivation volumes next month!
t-nut
Posted by Hank Pantier in Route Setting, 0 comments

Getting ready for the Boulder Climbing Series (BCS)

The new volumes are in for the 2010/2011 BCS Comps starting in November . Tony and the route setters have begun to lay plans for the best comp series yet. Look for more info soon on the blog, at the BRC and on our website.

Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Competitions, Route Setting, 1 comment