Month: June 2013

Another Round of Bouldering

We just finished up another round of Bouldering.  The small cave inside and out were reset last week and the expansion cave we just reset on wednesday.  There are a lot of quality routes up, it’s a solid set.  The largest concentration of boulders seems to be in the advanced to elite – range.  Check out my Light blue route up the belly of the beast, it’s a gem (advanced -).

Today we stitched up four routes in the main gym area.  One moderate and three harder routes in the tsunami area.  Trevor put up a nice techy 11+/12- to the far left of tsunami, up the gently overhanging wall.    Sean has a steep 12- on Tsunami right, and i put up a 13- on the far left of the tsunami… an area we usually don’t have a 13 on.  Lots of pinches and compression and a little bit of jumping.  Check it out!

Dallas also put up a few more moderate boulders in the expansion today, it’s nearly a full set.  We’ll add one or two more intermediate/advance – to it on monday.

On another note, i bought my first princess waters at whole foods last night.  Apparently, it’s just sparkly water, but the crew got a hoot out of me asking the whole foods employees where they kept their princess waters, and then watching us go on a hunt for it in the cold beverage section.  You may have won this battle Smarvs, but not the war!


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That time of the year…

Yup, springtime is almost over.  Which means, besides spring cleaning, lots of nasty pollen and non-stop swamp cooler action at the BRC.  This keeps us nice and cool, but it can get a tad bit humid in here.

Our top ropes tend to get a little stiff and tight with the onslaught of increased humidity.  To rectify this, we’ve un-wrapped the double wraps on the bars of a few select culprits.  There are signs posted at those top-rope locations, just be sure there isn’t some extreme weight difference between you and your belayer, cause they can be a lot faster.

I just finished a route count – we have 108 routes up in the gym, 66 in the main gym and 42 in the expansion.  Our grade bell curve is looking nearly perfect, with only a few too many 5.11- that could spill into the 5.11 and 5.10+ range.

We’re nearly recovered from the minor setback in setting caused by the SCS comp.  There is now an extra pure stemming route put up left of the birthday slab on request by all the “Chris’s”.  As the put it, it’s pure dessert climbing, you don’t even have to pull down on a single hand-hold.

Comp routes are slowly coming down in the expansion – send them before it’s too late!  If you haven’t already, Dallas’ orange 5.12 comp route(thick tape) is techy and brilliant, as is Seth Lytton’s White 12+(arguably 13-) which comes down tomorrow unfortunately.

Enjoy the new routes.  I’m off for New York City to play some wedding music.  See you next week in the Gym!


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Enter the dally climbs

We’ve recently had an influx of routes named “dally ______”.   You might have seen them around.  For example, there is dally potter, dally parton, dally struthers, dally’s raging emotion, etc.  Dally is Dtron’s newest and bestest nickname.  In honor of Dallas’s soon to come departure, we figured naming lots of routes was the best way to memorialize him.  If you see him around the gym, be sure to call him by his new nickname.

We’ve finished up our spring cleaning(sorry about the dust) and are in full swing for summer setting.  There are some great new routes up.  We’ve started dismantling some kids comp routes early in the expansion, so that we can stay on schedule with our 2 month routes up-time.  TJ has a wonderful 11- on the wave wall that is wandery, sequential, and has some fun highstepping on underclings.  Try it out!

In the main room, there is a stellar new training 5.13 put up by dally.  The hardest move is probably the very first one, but after that, there is no resting to the chains.  I’m psyched! It’s great rifle training.  We just put up a new jug haul on the right side of tsunami that should fall in the 10-/10 range.  The 11-/11 pink route will be coming down on monday and reset as well.

On request, i also quickly added an 11+/12- stemming route on the expansion slab.  Hopefully it will satisfy the deep yearning for harder stemming routes for a couple months.  Next time it will be harder, i promise!

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