Getting ready for the Boulder Climbing Series (BCS)

The new volumes are in for the 2010/2011 BCS Comps starting in November . Tony and the route setters have begun to lay plans for the best comp series yet. Look for more info soon on the blog, at the BRC and on our website.

Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Competitions, Route Setting, 1 comment

How to use the Free Offerings from the BRC

So you’ve joined up because there is so much to do here, but now that you’re in, it’s hard to figure out how to make the most of the BRC for climbing and all of the free classes that are available to you as a member.  I’ve been getting a lot of questions about this, so read on and maybe this will help.

Tip #1: What are your goals?  If you know that, skip ahead to #2.  If you don’t know your goals, we are going to have to give it some thought before we proceed.  Here are some tips to setting a training goal.

  • Goals should be very clearly defined.  If you have a clear goal, then it will be easier to tell when you have made it.  Seems simple, but without this step everything else will fall apart.
  • Your goal should be realistic, measurable, and have a realistic timeline.  Many goals fail because they do not consider how daunting the task may be, have no way to measure progress, or have an open ended timeline.  Don’t bite off more than you can chew.  If you hit your goal sooner than you thought you can also set another one.

Our free classes can help you achieve your goals.  To make things simpler, think of the psychological and physical qualities that your goals will require.  At the end of this list are some suggestions if your goals involve:
Cross Training for Stamina and Recovery
Cross Training for Strength and Power
Cross Training for Flexibility
Cross Training for Core Strength
Climbing Training for Stamina and Recovery
Tip#2: Prioritize.  What additions or subtractions to and from your routine are going to benefit you the most?  Core strength?  Climbing conditioning?  Recovery training?  Pick the thing that makes the most sense and just start with that.  Don’t just add everything all at once.  Read Tip #3 right now.
Tip #3: Learn your limits.  If you start to challenge yourself in a new way you should expect your body to take time to adapt.  If you are thinking that your goals require you to start adding Cry in the Dojo classes to your routine, start conservatively.  Start with one a week and give your body a chance to catch up.  Also, remember that there are other stresses in your life.  Job?  School?  Family?  All have an affect on your performance and recovery.  The hardest workout of the week after the longest day of work may be a bad idea.
Tip #4: Plan.  If you don’t make a plan, then you probably won’t have consistency.  In the best of circumstances No consistency = No progress.  You need to look at your calendar and come up with a plan that allows you to work towards your goal with the time that you have available.
**Important note about rest and recovery. Remember that you only have so many resources in terms of time and energy.  You need time to recover.  A 10 mile run is not a rest day from climbing.  If you do not plan rest into your program, your body will eventually force in on you in the form of illness, burnout, and injury.  Voluntary rest is ALWAYS better than forced rest.
Tip#5: Begin.  You’ve set your goal.  You’ve prioritized your needs.  You understand your limits.  You have a plan.  Now get to it.
Tip #6: Record.  You need to track your progress so that you can see if you are moving towards your goal.  If your goal is performance based then you need to consider how to measure your training performance in relation to your goal.  For example if you want to be able to lead 10 pitches of 5.11 in two hours and your currently can only do 3, your progress could be measured by how many you are able to do week after week. 
Climbing Training for Stamina and Recovery
Climb-Fit w/ Chris Wall: Basics
Mondays  7pm-8pm
Climb-Fit with Chris Wall: The Rapture
Thursdays 7am-8:30am
  
Cross Training for Stamina and Recovery
Cry In The Dojo Series w/ Chris Wall:
Mondays 12pm Level 1: Enter the Dragon
Tuesdays 7:30am Level 3: Spartan 300
Tuesdays 5:30pm Level 2: Cry in the Dojo
Wednesdays 12pm Level 1.5: So You Think You’re A Dragon
Wednesdays 6pm-7pm 1.5: So You Think You’re A Dragon
Thursdays 5:30pm Level 3: Spartan 300
Cross Training for Strength and Power
Strength Promotes Confidence w/ Chris Wall
Tuesdays & Friday 12pm-1pm
Cry In The Dojo Series w/ Chris Wall:
Tuesdays 5:30pm Level 2: Cry in the Dojo
Tuesdays 7:30am Level 3: Spartan 300
Thursdays 5:30pm Level 3: Spartan 300
Cross Training for Flexibility and/or Core Strength and Endurance
Boulder Rock Club Yoga
Mondays 7:00pm with Olivia Hsu
Tuesdays 12:30pm with Jen Herling
Tuesdays 7:00pm with Brian Saeger
Thursdays 12:30pm with Dan Michael
Thursdays 7:00pm with Jen Herling
Fridays 6:00pm with Brian Saeger
Core Blaster with Dan Levison
Monday 5:30pm-6:30pm
Thursday 12:00pm-1pm
So there are the basics of starting your training program with us here at the Boulder Rock Club.  It is a lot to consider, and we are here to help.  If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. 
Chris Wall
BRC’s Fitness Director
303.447.2804
Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

Boulder Rock Club Climing Team Trip Report: Spain

My two weeks in Spain were filled with the full gambit of emotions: excitement, happiness, nervousness, frustration, and fear, just to name a few. Taking five kids to Europe by myself seemed like a daunting task. But as always the climbing and the kids made all of the travel, jet lag, and anxiety worthwhile. Not only was I coming from Hawaii, not Denver, giving me the full 12-hour time zone difference; but also I only had 24 hrs to re-pack, round up the team, and get to the airport on time. We made our flight, and I was pysched just to sit back and watch movie after movie on the plane.

Rodellar is a blip of a town in Northwestern Spain. There are no grocery stores, shopping malls, or ATMS. Life there is simple, and it was a perfect setting for our two-week climbing trip with the BRC climbing team. I did not have to worry about the kids sneaking away to the local disco-tek. There was only one road in town and one could walk from one end the other in 5 minutes. Known as one of the premier climbing destinations, not only in Europe but also in the world, I was very excited to bring the team here and sample the perfect limestone.

“Planes, trains, and automobiles” would be a good description of how the first day of our trip went. 20 hrs later and 8 time zones, the team arrived at the refugio, Kalandraka. We were so tired from all the traveling; the team managed a walk around town, dinner, and then bed. We were exhausted but psyched to test the waters the following day.

Kalandraka is an awesome resource for climbers to stay at in Rodellar. This place was built by climbers for climbers, and the owner Nik was one of the nicest guys you can ever meet. We had a shuttle waiting for us as soon as we got off the bus, and we arrived to a beautiful space that had full amenities. The refugio. Kalandraka has free wireless, a full restaurant, and a kitchen, climbers trying to save a euro or two can cook at rather than pay for a fabulous meal there. I would recommend Kalandraka to anyone planning a visit. It’s cheaper and way nicer than camping! We had three fellow Americans and one Norwegian move in once they realized they would save money by not camping.

After a couple of days getting over jetlag, our second day was spent mostly sleeping at the cliff. The team finally got into a groove and started putting away some climbs. Mica climbed a handful of 12’s and started trying a 13a called Made in Mascun. Christian managed a couple of great onsights on two classic 12c’s. Katelyn and Miranda were still adjusting to rock climbing again after taking time off, but they quickly began to enjoy climbing outdoors again. Dallas and I were having a little friendly competition. We both managed a couple of proud tics, but the enjoyment of climbing on such great stone has a much longer lasting memory than any number grade that we did. Dallas did manage to beat me by one route. Next time Dallas!

Much like Rifle, CO, the climbing in Rodellar is physical, steep, and three-dimensional. One finds himself climbing in and out of giant tufa drips that run down the cliffs. The use of kneepads and knee bars can really help a climber catch a quick shake or even help a hard sequence and make it easier. The routes are so steep you can get lowered out 30 feet or more from where you started. We only had 10 days there, so we made each climbing day count by starting relatively early and finishing at dark.

Family Raboutou was already in Rodellar, and it was nice to come to a foreign country and have friendly familiar faces showing up at our doorstep. Not surprisingly, the Raoutous were dispatching one climb after another there. On our second climbing day, we watched Shawn fall off the last move of a 14b, Welcome to Tijuana. Brooke was also climbing hard with her ascent of Brumisatore, a hard 13b, that I did not manage to send after two days of effort. Robyn was Robyn onsighting 13’s left and right. The whole family was on a no rest day policy. It seemed crazy to me but not for the Raboutous! The team’s rest days consisted of sleeping in or going for a run (Miranda), and spending the day swimming in one of the many swimming holes in the river Mascun.

The two weeks seemed to fly by, and we were back in Barcelona enjoying a nice dinner and reminiscing about our trip before we knew it. Rodellar is an amazing climbing destination, arguably the best that I have sampled. The scene is mellow yet motivating, and even the rest days are fun. I hope we can get another crew back next summer. Start planning your 2011 summer trip!

Tony Yao
Boulder Rock Club Climbing Team Coach & Head Route Setter
tyao@totalclimbing.com
www.totalclimbing.com

Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Team BRC, Youth Programs, 0 comments