New flooring and patch installation complete

We finished up installing our floor and subfloor patches.  Some of the softest and bumpiest areas of the gym are feeling a lot more solid and new now.

We also were doing some spring cleaning behind the walls, which, combined with the wind, made the gym a little dusty today.  Sorry about that!

There are some new slab routes up in the expansion from wednesday for the slab lovers, including a slopy and techy 5.12 to test your mettle on.  There’s also some fun new moderate 5.10’s to get your pump on in the main gym, and a new 5.12-/5.12 arete climb on the left side of the Mary Beth wall.  Our local venezuelan hardman, Onecho, also set a stiff 5.12 up the gently overhanging right side of the tsunami wall, which will probably check in a little harder, unless i was just feeling really weak today.  It gets harder the higher you get – the best kind of route!

Enjoy the routes!

Posted by Brent NG, 0 comments

New bouldering floor!

We successfully installed new flooring in the small bouldering cave, as well as the transition from the old gym to the expansion.  It will feel a lot more rigid than it used to, and looks brand spankin’ new!

We have a few more flooring patches that we’ll install in the next few weeks, but it shouldn’t interfere with any gym hours.

This friday we have 7 new routes in the old gym, nothing steep, mostly moderates.

Check out my new blocky 5.12- to the right of the tsunami wall… small moves on big, easy slopers and pinches!

Posted by Brent NG, 0 comments

Post-comp decompression

There are 20 new routes up in the expansion right now.  12 from the SCS kids competition – they will probably feel a lot stouter than our usual grades.  They are all very techy and sequential, and grow progressively more difficult the higher you go.  I’m hoping they’re all fairly adult friendly.

There are also 8 new routes that we slammed up immediately post-comp in the 5.9-5.11- range.  We’re still a few routes shy, but we’ll get them filled in over the next few weeks.  This past week we took two days to reset the small bouldering cave in the old gym.  It’s an easier set than normal, but the problems are all fun… enjoy!

We have a new setter intern from thailand working with us.  He’ll be here for two weeks.  Be sure to look out for Ooan’s tag and give us some feedback.  He’s picking up lots of tips and tricks for his gym back home.

We’re also getting new flooring in the small bouldering cave this wednesday night.  We will be closing that area a little early to start work on it, but the bouldering in the expansion will still be available.

Expansion bouldering is going to be reset this wednesday!

-Brent Ng

Head routesetter

Posted by Brent NG in Blog Post, Route Setting, 0 comments

New Routes up!

We put up 15 new routes this week in the gym.  Today, Dallas (D-tron or Dally as we all now want to rename him) stitched up a nice resistance rig on the right side of tsumani, which will probably fall in the 12+ category.  It’s a great trainer!  Look for the pink tape.  TJ also put up a nice techy 11- route under one of the auto belays.  Really fun and wandery – check it out to the left of the thunderball wall.   Get ready to mantle!

There are currently a total of 108 routes up in the gym, 42 of which are in the expansion.  The steep bouldering cave was reset this past week as well and we did some fill-in on the lower advanced problems, which we were lacking.  It’s a stiff set, but there’s some creative stuff up.  Check out Sean Drolet’s light blue compression sloper fest if you’re pushing the elite-/elite grade, it’s gotten some rave reviews.

Also – other exciting news in the office today – two of our employees have recently learned that they made it into hueco guide training.  Congrats to Jen Herling and Steph Marvez. That’s practically more exciting than winning a brand new car.  We’ll be demanding many trips from you two in hueco!   I have attached below a picture of the two of them, spontaneously caught in the height of their excitement.

They Toyota Jump

Next week we have the regional SCS competition held here on Saturday, May 11th.  We, unfortunately, have to close the expansion half of the gym for setting, beginning on wednesday may 8th.  The entire gym will be closed on Friday and Saturday, May 10-11th.  Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

On a good note, however, we’ll have loads of kid-sized routes for our climbing teams to train on afterwards.  Good luck to all the competitors!

We also plan on filling in immediately post comp, so there will be a lot of new routes (adult-friendly) come in and try on sunday.

-Brent Ng, Head Routesetter

Posted by Brent NG in Route Setting, 0 comments

5/30/12 Margarita Challenge Record Crushed!!

If you had told me, I wouldn’t have believed it. But I was there. I saw it with my own eyes.

As many of you know, we have an ongoing contest in my Cry in the Dojo classes.

The Margarita Challenge.

If all 12 class participants can get their heart rates past 93% of their max at the same time, I will make everyone in class a (award winning, hand crafted) margarita.

In 3 years this challenge has been met only twice. Of those two, the best performance had everyone able to achieve that 93% at the same time twice during the class. Very impressive. A record that stood for 3 years.

Until today. . .

Steph, Kat, Tammy, Beth, Kirk, Sherry, Adam, Chris, Amy, Jackie, Luke, and Josh shattered the record by simultaneously hitting 93% a whopping 7 times during class; once during each of the 4 rounds of tabatas, and then again once during each of the 3 lightning rounds.


Now we just need to settle on a day and time next week to collect their winnings!

Congratulations everyone!

Coach CWall

P.S. The class will be able to collect their margaritas on Wednesday, June 13th at 7:30pm in the Hangdog Lounge at the Boulder Rock Club!

Posted by CWall in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

Circuit Training

BRC trainers have developed a training circuit incorporating Tru Blue auotobelays.  Check out this video on how to better train for your climbing objectives.

Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

BRC Hours for April 20 & 21

USA Climbing Logo
We’re hosting a USA Climbing S.C.S. Local Event this upcoming Saturday.  Because of this, there are a few changes to the our hours of operation.  Take a look below for details.

Friday, April 20th
6:00am Weight Room/Cardio Open

11:00am Main Room Opens for climbing
4:00pm Expansion Opens for climbing
Don’t Forget: BRC Members can climb at the Spot for FREE
Saturday, April 21st
8:00am Weight Room/Cardio/Bouldering Open
8:00am All Roped Climbing Closed, Competitors Only
4:30pm Entire Gym Opens for Climbing
Don’t Forget: BRC Members can climb at the Spot for FREE
Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Competitions, 0 comments

CWall Level 1 Test Day Results! 3/2/12

Hey there,

   Here are the results from Monday’s Level 1 Test Day. Remember to reference the heart rate monitor sign out sheet with the results.

Posted by CWall in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

Coach CWall Episode 2: Shortcuts to Thinking


This has been a great week for training at the BRC, even though Spring Break is in session. Sean, our trusty coaching and training intern has been hard at work coming up with class designs and teaching all of the classes on his own (with a little feedback from me). If you were or are planning on coming to class this week we could use your feedback on Sean’s performance. This is supposed to be an educational experience for him after all.

This weeks YouTube Episode of Coach CWall: Shortcuts to Thinking deals with a topic that I see all the time in our athletic community. It deals with something called Inductive Reasoning, which basically means drawing a false conclusion from a set of facts. For example, Tom runs fast on Tuesdays. Today is Tuesday. Therefore Tom will run fast. You see where I am going?

Let’s take two athletes, Alpha and Beta. Alpha is good at something (pick the athletic endeavor du jour). Beta is new to the game and wants to be good at the same thing. Alpha does/eats/drinks X as part of their training regimen. Beta thinks that if Alpha does it then it must be the right thing because Alpha is oh so good. Obviously this is not necessarily true, as I point out in the video with a rather graphic example.

It is true that many good athletes have a lot of sound advice to dispense to the general public, but this is rare. It is the athletes job to perform, not teach. Very few top level athletes that have become effective coaches. This is mostly due to the fact that it is their job to perform, not to figure out what works for most people. There are of course some notable exceptions, but like I said, they are exceptions, not the norm.

Don’t be in too much of a hurry to follow the training regimen of the great ones, or expect to become world class after you read a training article in Outside Magazine. It takes years to make a high level athlete, and chances are there is a lot more to what gets there than you or they think.

Just because someone is successful, it is not safe to assume that everything they do or say contributes to that success, no matter how much they may believe it.

Let these great athletes inspire you. Look at their advice and cross reference it with other research. Short cuts to thinking can get you into trouble, especially with training. Be careful and thoughtful, or the next place you might be seeking advice may be your doctor or physical therapist.

Until next time!

Coach CWall

Posted by CWall in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

X-Cardio for the Mountains: Week 8


Hey there,

   One week until test week, and I wanted to make sure that everyone was going to be ready with a class that would be harder than test day. We’ve started introducing deadlifts and assisted pull-ups to our regimen, as well as some more complicated core work on the swiss balls.

   We had a near success on the Margarita Challenge today. 11 out of 12 at 93% of their max heart rate or higher, with the 12th person at 92% when the timer went off. It doesn’t get much closer. But alas, no 93, no marg.

   I have had a lot of people ask me to do max heart rate tests on the treadmill since I posted protocol. That is awesome! Some of you still need to test yourselves or have me do it!

   Until next time!

Coach CWall

Posted by CWall in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

Max Heart Rate Test: Not for the Faint of Heart!

Hey there,

   I would like to start off by stating something:


This is exercise. Exercise, much like leaving your bed in the morning is NOT SAFE! Please take responsibility for your well being and think before you act. And if you want to play it safe, consult with a health professional before you start ANY new exercise program.

The following is the treadmill max heart rate test that I use with my clients and teams. It is dangerous. You will be putting yourself in harm’s way. This is a “stress” test, and if you choose to do it, you do so at your own risk. 

I recommend doing a test of this nature under the direct supervision of a qualified health professional (someone like me). 

In my opinion, you should avoid a running max heart rate test if you have any physical or  psychological condition that would limit your ability to run on a treadmill under duress (i.e. heart condition, knee injury, bad judgement, etc.)

Here are a couple of considerations that I like to remind people about when they get on a treadmill:

#1) Remember that you can fall off this thing ala George Jetson, and get thrown down pretty hard and belt sanded. It hurts when this happens. Don’t let it happen to you.

#2) Remember to clip into the Emergency Stop clip. That way if you fall the treadmill will stop sooner and the belt will sand you less. PLEASE DO NOT THINK THAT THIS WILL MAKE CONSIDERATION #1 LESS LIKELY OR TRAUMATIC.

#3) This is not going to feel good. It is a “stress” test and is only meant to be performed once in a while (I like to say no more than once a quarter). Don’t let yourself get so tired and goofy that you cannot stop the machine.

#4) Have an escape plan. I like to use the Emergency Stop Clip like a parachute rip cord. I makes the machine stop and I find it easier than hitting stop button.

#5) Strongly consider doing this with a partner who can adjust the machine’s settings for you. It is easier and safer, and they can call 911 if you truly blow it.

#6) Most importantly, stop the test immediately if you feel faint, dizzy, or feel pain outside the discomfort we associate with fatigue. The test has to end sometime you know.

Now that I have said all that, here is the test that I administer. Aside from the situations described in Consideration #6, the test is over when you increase to the next stage of the test and there is no corresponding increase in heart rate. Record the highest heart rate you achieved. That is your max heart rate. 

– Start at 2mph at a 2% grade for 3 minutes.
– 3mph at 4% for 3 minutes
– 4mph at 6% for 3 minutes
– 5mph at 8% for 3 minutes
– 5mph at 10% for 3 minutes
* 5mph at 12% or 6mph at 10% for 3 minutes
* 5mph at 14% or 6mph at 12 % for 3 minutes
* 5mph at 15% until heart rate tops out or 6mph at 14% for 3 minutes
* 6mph at 15% until heart rate tops out.
The stages marked with – are ones that happen with all the people that I test. There is individual variation with the * stages depending upon what speed a subject can “handle.” You will have to decide for yourself. I recommend deciding in advance and sticking to it on the test. Having to improvise when you are doing a test like this is not advisable.
Be careful! Good luck! Don’t puke or get blood on my treadmill!
Coach CWall

Posted by CWall in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

Enter the Vlog!

It’s done! Episode 1 of Coach CWall’s weekly video blog (vlog). This episode is more of an introduction to what the general plan is for the future. 
Please subscribe to my channel on YouTube (coachcwall) and follow me on Twitter (coachchriswall). We can even hang out on Facebook (Chris Wall).
Coach CWall: Episode 1: What’s the Point?
Let me know what you think!
Coach CWall
Posted by CWall in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Team BRC, Training, 2 comments

CWall: SPC – Coordinated Climbing Strength


Hey all,

   After 4 weeks of prep work with our SPC: Finger & Upper Body Power, we have kicked off week #1 of Coordinated Climbing Strength! Archer Rows, Turkish Situps, Overhead Squats, Assisted One Arms on a 1cm edge, and Alternating Twisting Knee Raises. We’ve honed things down to the essentials and are ready to enter this final phase of upper body strength work.

   We’re going to keep things pretty simple here without a whole lot of rest stations, which means that as the weeks go by we will see more and more heavy sets. After all, it’s not like anyone is going to get strong doing easy stuff.

   For those of you that were there today, and those of you doing this at home, consider throwing in an additional day after this first round of soreness passes. Here was today’s workout:

See you next time!
Coach CWall

Posted by BRC in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 1 comment

Level 1: Test Day!


Oh my god. Another test day. But I am happy to say that everyone killed it today! Devna was a champion after her 10 day vacation, and Chris V. got to sport his new found (and much more accurate) max heart rate. Sheri found another gear that she can drop to when things get ugly. Hopefully she will keep up the good work.

Here are the results from today. Remember, the only things that you need to compare to your last test day are:
1) Average Heart Rate
2) Time spent in Hard, Very Hard, and Maximal training zones.
3) The number of peaks at the end of the class time.

Most of the other parameters won’t mean much because we don’t enter in any of your other information (weight, height, gender, etc.). We just put in your projected max heart rate or your tested max heart rate.


Posted by BRC in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments

X-Cardio for the Mountains: Test Day

Hey there,

   Today’s blog is all about results from Test Day for X-Cardio for the Mountains. We are comparing the results from the Tuesday and Wednesday classes (Feb. 7th , 28th, and 29th). Don’t forget to look at the heart rate monitor sign out sheets so that you look at the correct results. They are the 1st image before the actual results from that class.

Tuesday, 2/7/2012

Tuesday, 2/28/2012

Wednesday, 2/29/2012

Posted by BRC in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 1 comment

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Revo Guide Sunglasses

One thing a Mountain Guide must have is a good pair of sunglasses. With the amount of time outdoor professionals spend in the sun, UV protection is paramount. I recently acquired a pair of the “Guide” sunglasses from Revo and they have been great. Personally, I prefer larger framed shades mostly due to my abnormally sized noggin, but also because of the greater surface area they cover on my face.

The Revo Guide comes with Serillium lenses to resist impact and scratching, making them ideal for a variety of outdoor pursuits. They also feature Revo’s patented Element Shed, allowing sweat, oil, water, or snow to simply just roll off your lenses keeping your vision unimpaired.

The Revo Guide aren’t just full of great tech features and style, they are sustainable as well. They utilize a nylon that is made from the Castor Bean plant as opposed to petroleum based nylon like many other eyewear manufacturers. This material is sustainable and environmentally friendly as well as lightweight and highly flexible.

Whether skiing, rock climbing, ice climbing, or just cruising around the block, the Revo Guide will not disappoint.

Hope to see you all out there.

-Eric Whewell
Colorado Mountain School Guide
800-836-4008 x3

Posted by BRC in Gear Review, 0 comments

X-Cardio for the Mountains: Week #4


Test Day is next week! Be prepared! Hydrate! Don’t hit the burrito bar 20 minutes before class!

Big change today. The jumprope row didn’t get any breaks. They had to switch between speed rope, lateral hops, and high knees every 30 seconds. For 4.5 minutes. Without stopping.


There were a lot of classics to tackle today as well as some motor skill acquisition with the Goat Flip Lunge.

The Mystery Event is where things got interesting. We started with a typical Greased Lightning Round (30 seconds each, no rest). But after that was over we had some extra time on our hands.

New Game: Quid Pro Quo. Something for Something. So here is how it works. During the Greased Lightning Round you take note of the highest heart rate you’ve achieved. For some this was upwards of around 97-98% of their max. When QPQ starts basically you have to hit that number again doing either high knees or flying chickens. If class had been full today I would have owed some folks a margarita.

See ya next time!

Coach CWall

Posted by BRC in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 4 comments

Strength Promotes Confidence: Finger & Upper Body Power: Week #3


Hey there,

   No new exercises today. In fact there were a lot of things that didn’t change. Same reps, same rests, same same same. . . but different.
   We managed 9 sets of exercise today. Tried for 10, but time didn’t allow for it. Round 1 saw 5 sets and Round 2 saw 4.
   Next week is the last week of this cycle. Everyone needs to be prepared for a lot of heavy sets!

See you there!

Coach CWall

Posted by BRC in Blog Post, Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments