The dog days of summer…

… are nearly over.  Fall is quickly coming our way and the busy season is nearly upon us.  Enjoy the last few hot and slow days.  Soon the humidity will chill out in the gym and the outdoor temps will be pristine.  The most perfect time of the year, as far as climbing is concerned, is nearly here.

I’ve been enjoying  these past few weeks by moving in to my new home(homeowner!), running more and climbing less due to finger and shoulder injuries.  Surprisingly, i’ve found that cardio fitness does a surprising amount for climbing… after not climbing for a month, i didn’t get pumped up a hard route on the tsunami.  Normally i’d be pumped out of my gourd with that much time off.  Once i start climbing full time again, my new program will involve much more running and much less climbing.  It might even reduce the injuries.  I’m sold.

As far as routes go, we reset the small cave this morning.  There is a really even spread of grades in there.  One of our front-deskers, Tyler, came in to help out as well.  Let us know what you think of his routes, they’re marked, “TS”.  There are some short and hard vertical problems up as well, involving nasty and tiny crimps, or funky sloper traverses.  See if you can unlock them!

-Brent Ng


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Some moderate affection

I’ve had some requests from some climbers to watch the bouldery nature of our more moderate 5.9’s and 5.10’s.  Fret not!  You have been heard!  I’m double and triple checking that there are enough footholds on our moderate routes to reduce the pulls and increase the technical aspect of those climbs.  This has been stressed to our setters as well.  Hopefully this will increase the flow and decrease the frustration that may or may not have occurred.

In other exciting news… a new set of mini-cave bouldering has been stitched up.  There’s also a new open foot traverse circumnavigating the entire inside of the small bouldering cave – big holds, big fun!

I’m out early today… gotta prep some music for a wedding this weekend.  Climb hard this weekend!


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Desperate for Dally Routes

With the new terrain in the expansion, we’ve started doing “splitzy routes”(my newly coined term)… it’s crowded down low and lots of space up top, so we have been splitting a route into an easier and harder variation.  You’ll start to see a few more of these.  Because of our splitzy routes, we’re up to 110 routes right now.  We’re, admittedly, a little low on 5.9’s, and we have an overabundance of 5.11+, 10- and 10.  It should start normalizing over the next couple of weeks, as we adjust for it during setting.

A lot of our SCS comp routes are starting to come down, so we’re setting twice in the expansion this week.  There are some new moderates and a couple of low-grade 12’s that went up today.  Last friday some new hard stuff was put up in the tsunami, so if you’re fixing to crank some easy or hard 13’s, go check them out.

If you’ve been following the blog at all (i’d be amazed) or have been climbing in the gym and actually pay attention to our route names, then you most likely have noticed the proliferation of “Dally” themed routes.  It is in honor of Dallas (aka Dtron) who is leaving mid-august.  Only, we’re in desperate need of good Dally route names.  It’s really been a steady downhill dive ever since the “Dally Lhama” and “Dilly Dally” were used up.  I mean, “Dally Donkey”, my last Dally route, is fairly contrived and far-reaching.  The donkey theme is my go-to move when the creative juices are all dried up.  So, feel free to post some dally themed route names in the comments and maybe we’ll use them!

Also, If you see a skinny little Dally romping and frolicking his jolly little way about the gym, make sure to wish him well in his journeys.

I’ve been contemplating a routesetting game lately….   We’ll leave a vote section up on each new route for the “Guess who the routesetter is?” game.  Only… i might even give a task to each setter to emulate another setter.  Sound complicated?  Sound fun?  Maybe both?

What follows is an example to abate any confusion you might have:

Let’s suppose Patrick (PM) was instructed to set like Ng (myself).  If you happen to vote NG then patrick wins(i guess you kinda do too).  If you vote PM then YOU win and he loses!  If you vote TM for some odd reason then everybody loses.  What do you win, you might ask?  Pride points and bragging rights.  Increased gym status.  Personal power and greatly increased climbing abilities.  And who wouldn’t want all of that?

Okay, i’m off to go running.  Apparently, i have a honey stinger addiction.  The only way to live with the guilt that accompanies the excess calories is to overtrain myself.  Or so i was told by Smarvs and McNichols. Proper NMA‘ers, if i do say so myself.




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Another Round of Bouldering

We just finished up another round of Bouldering.  The small cave inside and out were reset last week and the expansion cave we just reset on wednesday.  There are a lot of quality routes up, it’s a solid set.  The largest concentration of boulders seems to be in the advanced to elite – range.  Check out my Light blue route up the belly of the beast, it’s a gem (advanced -).

Today we stitched up four routes in the main gym area.  One moderate and three harder routes in the tsunami area.  Trevor put up a nice techy 11+/12- to the far left of tsunami, up the gently overhanging wall.    Sean has a steep 12- on Tsunami right, and i put up a 13- on the far left of the tsunami… an area we usually don’t have a 13 on.  Lots of pinches and compression and a little bit of jumping.  Check it out!

Dallas also put up a few more moderate boulders in the expansion today, it’s nearly a full set.  We’ll add one or two more intermediate/advance – to it on monday.

On another note, i bought my first princess waters at whole foods last night.  Apparently, it’s just sparkly water, but the crew got a hoot out of me asking the whole foods employees where they kept their princess waters, and then watching us go on a hunt for it in the cold beverage section.  You may have won this battle Smarvs, but not the war!


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That time of the year…

Yup, springtime is almost over.  Which means, besides spring cleaning, lots of nasty pollen and non-stop swamp cooler action at the BRC.  This keeps us nice and cool, but it can get a tad bit humid in here.

Our top ropes tend to get a little stiff and tight with the onslaught of increased humidity.  To rectify this, we’ve un-wrapped the double wraps on the bars of a few select culprits.  There are signs posted at those top-rope locations, just be sure there isn’t some extreme weight difference between you and your belayer, cause they can be a lot faster.

I just finished a route count – we have 108 routes up in the gym, 66 in the main gym and 42 in the expansion.  Our grade bell curve is looking nearly perfect, with only a few too many 5.11- that could spill into the 5.11 and 5.10+ range.

We’re nearly recovered from the minor setback in setting caused by the SCS comp.  There is now an extra pure stemming route put up left of the birthday slab on request by all the “Chris’s”.  As the put it, it’s pure dessert climbing, you don’t even have to pull down on a single hand-hold.

Comp routes are slowly coming down in the expansion – send them before it’s too late!  If you haven’t already, Dallas’ orange 5.12 comp route(thick tape) is techy and brilliant, as is Seth Lytton’s White 12+(arguably 13-) which comes down tomorrow unfortunately.

Enjoy the new routes.  I’m off for New York City to play some wedding music.  See you next week in the Gym!


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Enter the dally climbs

We’ve recently had an influx of routes named “dally ______”.   You might have seen them around.  For example, there is dally potter, dally parton, dally struthers, dally’s raging emotion, etc.  Dally is Dtron’s newest and bestest nickname.  In honor of Dallas’s soon to come departure, we figured naming lots of routes was the best way to memorialize him.  If you see him around the gym, be sure to call him by his new nickname.

We’ve finished up our spring cleaning(sorry about the dust) and are in full swing for summer setting.  There are some great new routes up.  We’ve started dismantling some kids comp routes early in the expansion, so that we can stay on schedule with our 2 month routes up-time.  TJ has a wonderful 11- on the wave wall that is wandery, sequential, and has some fun highstepping on underclings.  Try it out!

In the main room, there is a stellar new training 5.13 put up by dally.  The hardest move is probably the very first one, but after that, there is no resting to the chains.  I’m psyched! It’s great rifle training.  We just put up a new jug haul on the right side of tsunami that should fall in the 10-/10 range.  The 11-/11 pink route will be coming down on monday and reset as well.

On request, i also quickly added an 11+/12- stemming route on the expansion slab.  Hopefully it will satisfy the deep yearning for harder stemming routes for a couple months.  Next time it will be harder, i promise!

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New flooring and patch installation complete

We finished up installing our floor and subfloor patches.  Some of the softest and bumpiest areas of the gym are feeling a lot more solid and new now.

We also were doing some spring cleaning behind the walls, which, combined with the wind, made the gym a little dusty today.  Sorry about that!

There are some new slab routes up in the expansion from wednesday for the slab lovers, including a slopy and techy 5.12 to test your mettle on.  There’s also some fun new moderate 5.10’s to get your pump on in the main gym, and a new 5.12-/5.12 arete climb on the left side of the Mary Beth wall.  Our local venezuelan hardman, Onecho, also set a stiff 5.12 up the gently overhanging right side of the tsunami wall, which will probably check in a little harder, unless i was just feeling really weak today.  It gets harder the higher you get – the best kind of route!

Enjoy the routes!

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New bouldering floor!

We successfully installed new flooring in the small bouldering cave, as well as the transition from the old gym to the expansion.  It will feel a lot more rigid than it used to, and looks brand spankin’ new!

We have a few more flooring patches that we’ll install in the next few weeks, but it shouldn’t interfere with any gym hours.

This friday we have 7 new routes in the old gym, nothing steep, mostly moderates.

Check out my new blocky 5.12- to the right of the tsunami wall… small moves on big, easy slopers and pinches!

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CWall Level 2: Test Day 1/12/12

Hey all,

   Test Day for the CWall Level 2 class went really well. Fundamentally it was the same as the Test Day for Level 1, but with one very important difference. Instead of a 5 minute round of Peaks and Valleys using burpees as our exercise medium, we did 10 minutes of burpees, high knees, split jumps, and kick thrus! Each of these exercises is very different from a biomechanics perspective, and rotating through them provides a greater challenge for the test. Way to go everyone! It was rough.

   Here is the HR Monitor sign out sheet so you can cross reference with your results:

Remember, we will be doing test days on a regular basis. You won’t get fitter if you don’t stay consistent! 
See you next time!
Coach CWall
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CWall Level 2: Test Day Results 1/12/12

Hey all,

   That’s right, tonight was the CWall Level 2 Test Day. For the most part it was the exact same thing as Monday’s Level 1 Test Day. . . with one serious exception. Instead of doing just burpees peaks and valleys, we did a medley of 4 exercises instead: burpees, high knees, split jumps, and kick thrus. Each of these exercises is very different mechanically and have different demands. And instead of 5 minutes, we took it all the way to 10.

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Strength Promotes Confidence: Foundations 1/12/2012

Hey all,

   Today was the first day of our three week Foundations training cycle. As you can see we started out with several of the basics, with a lot of rest in between so everyone could concentrate on their form. 4 sets of each trying to fail between 6-8 reps. These weights got pretty heavy, but everyone did a great job. Next week we’ll add another exercise and make a couple of other changes to spice things up.

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Hey everyone,
  Here were are during the first week of our new training programs and we’ve got some results from the CWall Level 1 Test Day on Monday, 1/9/2012. I have to admit it was a little harder than I let on, but. . . well. . . tough. Everyone did a great job and really pushed themselves, especially during the Peaks and Valleys test. Here were the exercises that we used for the class if you are interested in re-creating this at home:

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First Descents Climb-A-Thon

We would like to thank everyone for making the First Descents Climb-A-Thon a raging success.  Last Tuesday ABC’s Everyday Health show chose First Descents to feature in one of their episodes.  First Descents is a Denver based non-profit that provides adventure therapy to young adults with cancer. Adventures include white water kayaking, rock climbing, and surfing. We hosted a Climb-a-thon for the episode to help them show the world about First Descents. 
                Big props to Team ABC for their participation during the Climb-a-thon.  They raised a lot of money for First Descents as well as provide great footage of little kids crushing it for Everyday Health. 
                To learn more about First Descents and how to participate check out the link http://firstdescents.org/
Chris Wall
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New Coreblaster Schedule

The summer temperatures are high and folks are cooling off at the lake.  How does you core look in your swimsuit?  Tone up with COREBLASTERS with Jess Elliot on Fridays at Noon.  Monday’s Coreblaster Class is currently on hold, but will resume shortly. 

Get your chiseled abs today!
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Boulder Climbing Community Winter Event: Feb 17th

Join us February 17th 7pm at the Boulder Rock Club for the Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) Winter Event. Featured speakers include Jim Erickson, Daniel Woods and Timmy O’Neill.

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Final BCS!

Come one, come all for the final BCS comp this Friday and Saturday January 7th and 8th. Kick off the new year with a fun night at the Boulder Rock Club climbing on some sick climbs created by j-star, ng, pm, tm, sb, and t-nut. We will be featuring some new shapes by teknik, so come get your game face on!

Posted by Hank Pantier, 0 comments

Holiday Setting

Hey everyone,

Even though the holidays are here, we at the Boulder Rock Club will still be setting quality routes and boulder problems for you three times a week! The week of Christmas we will be turning over all the bouldering in the original as well as the expansion areas. The week of the New Year we will be back at it setting more great routes for ya’ll! Happy Holidays from the BRC setting crew.
Posted by Hank Pantier, 1 comment