Chris Wall

Boulder Climbing Series Advice

The Boulder Climbing Series is a very social and user friendly competition series. It is a great way to get into sport climbing competition, test yourself to see how your winter training is going, or just get a great workout and hang out with friends. But make no mistake, it is a competiton. There are rules, scorecards, and prizes. And let’s face it; there is something about the word “competition” that puts a little edge on things. Often enough, the pressure from even the most casual of events is enough to frustrate our efforts. Here are four things to think about that will help make your BCS experience more fun.

#1 Understand the rules. Sounds like a no-brainer, but not knowing the rules is a very common, very frustrating mistake. Fortunately this pitfall is totally avoidable. Make sure that you are there for the Rules Meeting at the beginning of every competiton. Don’t be shy about asking questions.
#2 Get enough scores on your card. Sounds simple, but you would be surprised at how many people miss this one. At the BCS we usually take your top 3 routes and add those points together for your final competition score. If you only have 2 routes completed by the end of the event, one of those three scores will be a ZERO!
It is amazing how quickly 3 hours can zip by. I usually tell my athletes to be ready to go as soon as the competiton starts. That way they can get points on their score card sooner rather than later.

#3 Warming up on competiton routes and non-competition routes. This is a biggie. Time and comp routes are limited. Should you warm up on competition routes or on the other routes scattered throughout the gym? The advantage of warming up on comp routes is that you help to ensure #1, getting enough scores on your card. The disadvantage is that you will have to wait in line for your turn, which may take a while.
If you want to really play it well, put your score card in the queue and do a little bit of timing math. It takes 4-5 minutes for one competitor’s turn at bat. If there are 5 people ahead of you in line, and they are all successful on the route (a big if sometimes) we are talking about 20-25 minutes of waiting. While your score card is in line, you can be off warming up on a route that is not part of the competition. Just make sure that you make it back in time.

#4 Watch other climbers. This is a REDPOINT format competition. That means that not only do you get to try routes more than once, but you also get to watch other people climb them. Other than climbing it yourself, watching other climbers is the most valuable source of information about a route that you will get. Use it.

There are always several BRC staff members around to help you get the most out of your competition experience during the BCS. Please don’t hesitate to ask if you have questions or if you need something. This competition series is for you, and we are here to help.
Posted by CWall in Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Competitions, 2 comments

BRC Junior Team BCS Results!

Congratulations to all the kids that participated in our first Boulder Climbing Series competition of the season!  The BRC’s Junior climbing team had a great performance in what was our most well attended BCS comp so far.

For several of our kids this was their first roped climbing competition.  I would like to congratulate Oz Alkaitis and Max Mauson from BRC’s Micro Team who tied for 3rd place in Male Youth D in their first roped competition.  Team BRC member Ben Lindfors tied for 1st place in the Male Youth B division, while Solina Kennedy placed 2nd in her first roped event in Female Youth B.  Male Youth A was handily won by BRC Junior Team member Gavin Banik, with 2nd place going to his team mate Arthur Heilman.  Female Youth A was a sweep for Team BRC with Mica Hartman placing first and Katelyn Hudspeth in 2nd.  The top 5 in Male Junior was a list of Team BRC members and alumni alike with Dallas Milburn looking to take another BCS season title with a strong first place finish, followed by team mate David Canova, alumnist Ryder Dale, and team mate Mark Benz in 4th place.  In the Family Division, the Arata family narrowly missed 1st place with strong performance by Bill (Dad), Suzy (Mom), and Junior Team member Alise (Daughter).

Be sure to cheer on the team at our next event on December 10th and 11th!

Chris Wall
BRC’s Fitness Director
303.447.2804

cwall@totalclimbing.com

Posted by BRC in Chris Wall, Competitions, Team BRC, 0 comments

How to use the Free Offerings from the BRC

So you’ve joined up because there is so much to do here, but now that you’re in, it’s hard to figure out how to make the most of the BRC for climbing and all of the free classes that are available to you as a member.  I’ve been getting a lot of questions about this, so read on and maybe this will help.

Tip #1: What are your goals?  If you know that, skip ahead to #2.  If you don’t know your goals, we are going to have to give it some thought before we proceed.  Here are some tips to setting a training goal.

  • Goals should be very clearly defined.  If you have a clear goal, then it will be easier to tell when you have made it.  Seems simple, but without this step everything else will fall apart.
  • Your goal should be realistic, measurable, and have a realistic timeline.  Many goals fail because they do not consider how daunting the task may be, have no way to measure progress, or have an open ended timeline.  Don’t bite off more than you can chew.  If you hit your goal sooner than you thought you can also set another one.

Our free classes can help you achieve your goals.  To make things simpler, think of the psychological and physical qualities that your goals will require.  At the end of this list are some suggestions if your goals involve:
Cross Training for Stamina and Recovery
Cross Training for Strength and Power
Cross Training for Flexibility
Cross Training for Core Strength
Climbing Training for Stamina and Recovery
Tip#2: Prioritize.  What additions or subtractions to and from your routine are going to benefit you the most?  Core strength?  Climbing conditioning?  Recovery training?  Pick the thing that makes the most sense and just start with that.  Don’t just add everything all at once.  Read Tip #3 right now.
Tip #3: Learn your limits.  If you start to challenge yourself in a new way you should expect your body to take time to adapt.  If you are thinking that your goals require you to start adding Cry in the Dojo classes to your routine, start conservatively.  Start with one a week and give your body a chance to catch up.  Also, remember that there are other stresses in your life.  Job?  School?  Family?  All have an affect on your performance and recovery.  The hardest workout of the week after the longest day of work may be a bad idea.
Tip #4: Plan.  If you don’t make a plan, then you probably won’t have consistency.  In the best of circumstances No consistency = No progress.  You need to look at your calendar and come up with a plan that allows you to work towards your goal with the time that you have available.
**Important note about rest and recovery. Remember that you only have so many resources in terms of time and energy.  You need time to recover.  A 10 mile run is not a rest day from climbing.  If you do not plan rest into your program, your body will eventually force in on you in the form of illness, burnout, and injury.  Voluntary rest is ALWAYS better than forced rest.
Tip#5: Begin.  You’ve set your goal.  You’ve prioritized your needs.  You understand your limits.  You have a plan.  Now get to it.
Tip #6: Record.  You need to track your progress so that you can see if you are moving towards your goal.  If your goal is performance based then you need to consider how to measure your training performance in relation to your goal.  For example if you want to be able to lead 10 pitches of 5.11 in two hours and your currently can only do 3, your progress could be measured by how many you are able to do week after week. 
Climbing Training for Stamina and Recovery
Climb-Fit w/ Chris Wall: Basics
Mondays  7pm-8pm
Climb-Fit with Chris Wall: The Rapture
Thursdays 7am-8:30am
  
Cross Training for Stamina and Recovery
Cry In The Dojo Series w/ Chris Wall:
Mondays 12pm Level 1: Enter the Dragon
Tuesdays 7:30am Level 3: Spartan 300
Tuesdays 5:30pm Level 2: Cry in the Dojo
Wednesdays 12pm Level 1.5: So You Think You’re A Dragon
Wednesdays 6pm-7pm 1.5: So You Think You’re A Dragon
Thursdays 5:30pm Level 3: Spartan 300
Cross Training for Strength and Power
Strength Promotes Confidence w/ Chris Wall
Tuesdays & Friday 12pm-1pm
Cry In The Dojo Series w/ Chris Wall:
Tuesdays 5:30pm Level 2: Cry in the Dojo
Tuesdays 7:30am Level 3: Spartan 300
Thursdays 5:30pm Level 3: Spartan 300
Cross Training for Flexibility and/or Core Strength and Endurance
Boulder Rock Club Yoga
Mondays 7:00pm with Olivia Hsu
Tuesdays 12:30pm with Jen Herling
Tuesdays 7:00pm with Brian Saeger
Thursdays 12:30pm with Dan Michael
Thursdays 7:00pm with Jen Herling
Fridays 6:00pm with Brian Saeger
Core Blaster with Dan Levison
Monday 5:30pm-6:30pm
Thursday 12:00pm-1pm
So there are the basics of starting your training program with us here at the Boulder Rock Club.  It is a lot to consider, and we are here to help.  If you have any questions, feel free to contact me. 
Chris Wall
BRC’s Fitness Director
303.447.2804
Posted by BRC in Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Fitness, Training, 0 comments