Brent NG

34 years old, born in Baltimore, lover of everything Czech, occasional runner, sometimes climber, sub-par writer, hackneyed musician, wannabe dancer, curious amalgamation of two disparate races
34 years old, born in Baltimore, lover of everything Czech, occasional runner, sometimes climber, sub-par writer, hackneyed musician, wannabe dancer, curious amalgamation of two disparate races

Enter the dally climbs

We’ve recently had an influx of routes named “dally ______”.   You might have seen them around.  For example, there is dally potter, dally parton, dally struthers, dally’s raging emotion, etc.  Dally is Dtron’s newest and bestest nickname.  In honor of Dallas’s soon to come departure, we figured naming lots of routes was the best way to memorialize him.  If you see him around the gym, be sure to call him by his new nickname.

We’ve finished up our spring cleaning(sorry about the dust) and are in full swing for summer setting.  There are some great new routes up.  We’ve started dismantling some kids comp routes early in the expansion, so that we can stay on schedule with our 2 month routes up-time.  TJ has a wonderful 11- on the wave wall that is wandery, sequential, and has some fun highstepping on underclings.  Try it out!

In the main room, there is a stellar new training 5.13 put up by dally.  The hardest move is probably the very first one, but after that, there is no resting to the chains.  I’m psyched! It’s great rifle training.  We just put up a new jug haul on the right side of tsunami that should fall in the 10-/10 range.  The 11-/11 pink route will be coming down on monday and reset as well.

On request, i also quickly added an 11+/12- stemming route on the expansion slab.  Hopefully it will satisfy the deep yearning for harder stemming routes for a couple months.  Next time it will be harder, i promise!

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New flooring and patch installation complete

We finished up installing our floor and subfloor patches.  Some of the softest and bumpiest areas of the gym are feeling a lot more solid and new now.

We also were doing some spring cleaning behind the walls, which, combined with the wind, made the gym a little dusty today.  Sorry about that!

There are some new slab routes up in the expansion from wednesday for the slab lovers, including a slopy and techy 5.12 to test your mettle on.  There’s also some fun new moderate 5.10’s to get your pump on in the main gym, and a new 5.12-/5.12 arete climb on the left side of the Mary Beth wall.  Our local venezuelan hardman, Onecho, also set a stiff 5.12 up the gently overhanging right side of the tsunami wall, which will probably check in a little harder, unless i was just feeling really weak today.  It gets harder the higher you get – the best kind of route!

Enjoy the routes!

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New bouldering floor!

We successfully installed new flooring in the small bouldering cave, as well as the transition from the old gym to the expansion.  It will feel a lot more rigid than it used to, and looks brand spankin’ new!

We have a few more flooring patches that we’ll install in the next few weeks, but it shouldn’t interfere with any gym hours.

This friday we have 7 new routes in the old gym, nothing steep, mostly moderates.

Check out my new blocky 5.12- to the right of the tsunami wall… small moves on big, easy slopers and pinches!

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Post-comp decompression

There are 20 new routes up in the expansion right now.  12 from the SCS kids competition – they will probably feel a lot stouter than our usual grades.  They are all very techy and sequential, and grow progressively more difficult the higher you go.  I’m hoping they’re all fairly adult friendly.

There are also 8 new routes that we slammed up immediately post-comp in the 5.9-5.11- range.  We’re still a few routes shy, but we’ll get them filled in over the next few weeks.  This past week we took two days to reset the small bouldering cave in the old gym.  It’s an easier set than normal, but the problems are all fun… enjoy!

We have a new setter intern from thailand working with us.  He’ll be here for two weeks.  Be sure to look out for Ooan’s tag and give us some feedback.  He’s picking up lots of tips and tricks for his gym back home.

We’re also getting new flooring in the small bouldering cave this wednesday night.  We will be closing that area a little early to start work on it, but the bouldering in the expansion will still be available.

Expansion bouldering is going to be reset this wednesday!

-Brent Ng

Head routesetter

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New Routes up!

We put up 15 new routes this week in the gym.  Today, Dallas (D-tron or Dally as we all now want to rename him) stitched up a nice resistance rig on the right side of tsumani, which will probably fall in the 12+ category.  It’s a great trainer!  Look for the pink tape.  TJ also put up a nice techy 11- route under one of the auto belays.  Really fun and wandery – check it out to the left of the thunderball wall.   Get ready to mantle!

There are currently a total of 108 routes up in the gym, 42 of which are in the expansion.  The steep bouldering cave was reset this past week as well and we did some fill-in on the lower advanced problems, which we were lacking.  It’s a stiff set, but there’s some creative stuff up.  Check out Sean Drolet’s light blue compression sloper fest if you’re pushing the elite-/elite grade, it’s gotten some rave reviews.

Also – other exciting news in the office today – two of our employees have recently learned that they made it into hueco guide training.  Congrats to Jen Herling and Steph Marvez. That’s practically more exciting than winning a brand new car.  We’ll be demanding many trips from you two in hueco!   I have attached below a picture of the two of them, spontaneously caught in the height of their excitement.

They Toyota Jump

Next week we have the regional SCS competition held here on Saturday, May 11th.  We, unfortunately, have to close the expansion half of the gym for setting, beginning on wednesday may 8th.  The entire gym will be closed on Friday and Saturday, May 10-11th.  Sorry for any inconvenience this may cause.

On a good note, however, we’ll have loads of kid-sized routes for our climbing teams to train on afterwards.  Good luck to all the competitors!

We also plan on filling in immediately post comp, so there will be a lot of new routes (adult-friendly) come in and try on sunday.

-Brent Ng, Head Routesetter

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