Month: December 2010

Holiday Setting

Hey everyone,

Even though the holidays are here, we at the Boulder Rock Club will still be setting quality routes and boulder problems for you three times a week! The week of Christmas we will be turning over all the bouldering in the original as well as the expansion areas. The week of the New Year we will be back at it setting more great routes for ya’ll! Happy Holidays from the BRC setting crew.
Posted by Hank Pantier, 1 comment

Boulder Climbing Series Advice

The Boulder Climbing Series is a very social and user friendly competition series. It is a great way to get into sport climbing competition, test yourself to see how your winter training is going, or just get a great workout and hang out with friends. But make no mistake, it is a competiton. There are rules, scorecards, and prizes. And let’s face it; there is something about the word “competition” that puts a little edge on things. Often enough, the pressure from even the most casual of events is enough to frustrate our efforts. Here are four things to think about that will help make your BCS experience more fun.

#1 Understand the rules. Sounds like a no-brainer, but not knowing the rules is a very common, very frustrating mistake. Fortunately this pitfall is totally avoidable. Make sure that you are there for the Rules Meeting at the beginning of every competiton. Don’t be shy about asking questions.
#2 Get enough scores on your card. Sounds simple, but you would be surprised at how many people miss this one. At the BCS we usually take your top 3 routes and add those points together for your final competition score. If you only have 2 routes completed by the end of the event, one of those three scores will be a ZERO!
It is amazing how quickly 3 hours can zip by. I usually tell my athletes to be ready to go as soon as the competiton starts. That way they can get points on their score card sooner rather than later.

#3 Warming up on competiton routes and non-competition routes. This is a biggie. Time and comp routes are limited. Should you warm up on competition routes or on the other routes scattered throughout the gym? The advantage of warming up on comp routes is that you help to ensure #1, getting enough scores on your card. The disadvantage is that you will have to wait in line for your turn, which may take a while.
If you want to really play it well, put your score card in the queue and do a little bit of timing math. It takes 4-5 minutes for one competitor’s turn at bat. If there are 5 people ahead of you in line, and they are all successful on the route (a big if sometimes) we are talking about 20-25 minutes of waiting. While your score card is in line, you can be off warming up on a route that is not part of the competition. Just make sure that you make it back in time.

#4 Watch other climbers. This is a REDPOINT format competition. That means that not only do you get to try routes more than once, but you also get to watch other people climb them. Other than climbing it yourself, watching other climbers is the most valuable source of information about a route that you will get. Use it.

There are always several BRC staff members around to help you get the most out of your competition experience during the BCS. Please don’t hesitate to ask if you have questions or if you need something. This competition series is for you, and we are here to help.
Posted by CWall in Boulder Rock Club, Chris Wall, Competitions, 2 comments

Team BRC Competition Double Header!

Last Saturday was big. Two competitions. Two gyms. Same day. To say that it was exhausting for the kids on Team BRC is an understatement. We found ourselves meeting at the BRC at 7:30am for the drive to Fort Collins for one of our qualifying events for the ABS Regional Championships. Three hours of bouldering competition where the kids (15 of ours in total) gave it their all. A small complimentary sandwich later and we were back in the van to come back to Boulder. To relax? No. To compete.

The Spot Bouldering Series event #3. Three more hours of bouldering competition. Some kids were surprised at how good they felt, others were feeling the morning’s event like a lead weight. But everyone surprised themselves at one point or another, realizing that sometimes the real effort is all in the mind. Each and every one of the kids put in a stellar effort and pulled hard for the home team.
Next stop. . . ABS Regional Championships.
Posted by CWall in Boulder Rock Club, Competitions, Team BRC, Youth Programs, 0 comments

BRC Junior Team Hueco Tanks Trip 2010!

It was fantastic! The weather was perfect. The kids were psyched. And thanks to the people at Apple, we have lots of video to share with everyone. We spent 6 days in Hueco this year with only one rest day during the week. The start of the trip was a smooth one with some of the Hueco trip veterans doing repeats of former projects. Dallas Milburn did a handy repeat of Sex After Death (V8) and Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10). David Canova got a quick redpoint of Sex After Death as well (check out the video!). Katelyn Hudspeth had a good trip having sent a former nemesis in the form of The Warmup Roof (V4) and a one move wonder in the East Spur Maze (V3). Newcomer Emily Lye cut her teeth (and her tips) on the edges of Hueco. Check out her send of Flexin’ Texan in the East Spur Maze. Remi Arata had a great sophmore effort on several of last years projects. See him terrify is coach on the topout of Left Donkey Show (V6). Spencer Platt, one of the youngest in the group has a proud send of the ultra classic Satan Satan Satan in the Dragon’s Den. One of the more impressive sends of the trip came from Howie Seim on his send of the Warmup Roof, which is about 2 grades harder using the 5’ and under beta. Senior Team BRC member David Canova had a strong effort sending his former project Sex After Death (V8) and breaking into the double digitis with his redpoint of Crimping Christ on the Cross (V10). Dallas Milburn took home the big prizes learning that he can actually do V10 quickly. Check out his send of Purple Flower (V10) in the East Spur Maze.

All in all the trip was a great success. We had a Thanksgiving feast with turkey and all the trimmings at the Hueco Rock Ranch. Our last night was spent playing a crazy game of zombie tag in the playground of Cattleman’s Steakhouse where we all had (except for our vegetarian, Katelyn) the best steaks in Texas. 

Next stop, bouldering Regional Championships, National Championships, and the Spring Break Trip to Red River Gorge, Kentucky! Hi ho buckaroos!
Posted by CWall in Boulder Rock Club, Team BRC, Youth Programs, 0 comments