First Descents Climb-A-Thon

We would like to thank everyone for making the First Descents Climb-A-Thon a raging success.  Last Tuesday ABC’s Everyday Health show chose First Descents to feature in one of their episodes.  First Descents is a Denver based non-profit that provides adventure therapy to young adults with cancer. Adventures include white water kayaking, rock climbing, and surfing. We hosted a Climb-a-thon for the episode to help them show the world about First Descents. 
                Big props to Team ABC for their participation during the Climb-a-thon.  They raised a lot of money for First Descents as well as provide great footage of little kids crushing it for Everyday Health. 
                To learn more about First Descents and how to participate check out the link http://firstdescents.org/
Thanks!
Chris Wall

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: W. Ridge of Eldorado

 Sunset in the N. Cascades, Washington

For most of us (in the Front Range anyway), when we hear the name “Eldorado,” we immediately think of our beloved Eldorado Canyon with soaring brown, red, and neon-green walls.  We think of how good the movement is on the warm Fountain sandstone and we think of the innumerable, quality routes inaudibly beckoning us like sirens seducing ill-fated sailors…or, as the case may be, desk-jockeys.  We think of the incredible amount of climbing and, best yet, how short the approaches are.

 CMS Guide Eric Whewell cruising up the W. Ridge & on his was to alpine certification

But in the great Northwest, there lies another Eldorado.  Unlike it’s Colorado cousin, Eldorado Peak pretty much shares none of those aforementioned attributes.  The rock quality is poor and treacherously loose, relegating the few routes to low 5th-class ridge climbs; and the approach options to Eldorado’s W. Ridge are all very long by Colorado standards.  Though, I will say, the views are simply spectacular.

Surmounting one of many gendarmes
Views north to Early Morning Spire and Dorado Needle from the ridge

CMS guide Eric Whewell and I, training for an upcoming alpine exam, walked the long approach to the base of Eldorado’s E. ridge.  Here we set up our camp as the sun disappeared and the moon simultaneously arose.  We left our camp early in the morning and essentially circumnavigated the Eldorado massif, dropping through a col between the Tepah Towers and Dorado Needle.  This was done by headlamp, connecting various glaciers that required extensive roped travel to manage the considerable crevasse hazard.  After yet a few more hours of approaching, we finally reached the 3000′ W. Ridge.

Another Eldorado ridge in the foreground, Early Morning Spire getting late-afternoon sun in the background
 A giant gendarme mid-way up the W. Ridge; cloud-bank below rolling in from the ocean

The climbing started out easy enough and we simul-soloed a third of the ridge before deeming the rock quality and difficulty just enough to warrant the rope.  We led in blocks, either outright pitches or simul-climbing, swapping leads whenever our small rack ran out.  I think most people take rock shoes up this route though the moderate grade of 5.7 felt comfortable in our La Sportiva Trango S Evo boots.  (We found a very munched Muira shoe near the top of the second third of the ridge.)  The difficulties were mostly found in simply managing the loose rock.  The hardest climbing came on a poorly protected traverse with a piton at the start but, at least, this section was short.

Taking a quick break and soaking up the views, mid-way up the route
 Eric climbing through one of the ridge’s steeper sections

Higher on the route, the ridge blended into a headwall comprised of infinite ledge systems.  The information we had said we only had another 500′ or so to go but it seemed endless.  Each “summit” turned out to be only another bump leading to more ledges.  Finally, seven hours after leaving camp, we reached the summit.

Unroped scrambling in the upper third of the W. Ridge
 Navigating exposed ledges near the top of the peak

A short but elegant snow-arete forms the upper part of Eldorado’s E. Ridge but the going was much easier than anything we’d been on yet.  We cruised down the E. Ridge, sometimes on rock, mostly on glacier and, 15 minutes later, were back at our camp.  Of course, this still left us with a 4.5 hour “approach” to get back to our car making us appreciate even more the ease of alpine climbing in RMNP let alone rock climbing in Eldo.

Andrew Councell
CMS guide

Descending Eldorado’s E. Ridge snow-arete back towards camp
View to the North, can just make out Shuksan (center) and Baker (left) in the far distance

Weekly Monday Gear Review: Black Diamond 40L Speed Pack

Since the line of Black Diamond Speed Packs were introduced, I have been a fan.  I have 2 generations of the 30L model and they have all performed great. My older Speed packs have served me well, from guided ascents of the Diamond on Longs Peak to multi day traverses in Washington’s North Cascades.  I have been fortunate enough to use the new version of the Speed Pack, but this season, in the 40L size. I only hoped the new model wouldn’t disappoint.  Needless to say, it didn’t.

The Speed 40L sports some new features this year including “SwingArm” shoulder straps to limit abuse on my shoulders during long mountain days.  Also new is Black Diamond’s “reACTIV” Hipbelt system allowing the pack to move with your body, not against.  These new features have made the pack much more comfortable than the older versions, especially when worn all day.
Some things haven’t changed that make the Speed Pack my favorite.  The new design still features a removable hipbelt and top lid to strip the pack’s size when climbing.  It comes with dual ice axe loops and external crampon attachment option as well as hydration system compatible.  Best of all, the pack is still super light and maintains its stripped down minimalist build.  I look forward to using the Speed 40L for most guiding objectives this year.
Enjoy,
Eric Whewell
CMS Guide
800-836-4008

Weekly Wednesday Trip Report: “By Gully” 5.9+

Located approximately 12 miles up Boulder Canyon, Castle Rock is a wonderful place to climb granite.  There are a wide range of routes available.  Anything from single-pitch to multi-pitch, 5.4 to 5.14.  Since I was heading to Yosemite soon, training at Castle Rock was the perfect choice.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

My climbing partner and I climbed a few single pitch routes that morning before I decided to hop on “By Gully”.  This route is rated 5.9+ and is the wide crack just left of the large roof.  It is an offwidth so be prepared.

Route Beta:
Boulder up to a bolt and clip it.  I used a standard quickdraw and didn’t feel any rope drag because of it.  Make a funky move to a hand crack and place a #1 Camalot.  You could probably place a #2 Camalot, but my I didn’t want to take that place because I used it as a hand jam to get into the wide section.  From there I went right side in.  Last year I tried this route left side in and it didn’t work.  Right side in worked great.

Photo taken from mountainproject.com

With my right side in, my right arm was a chicken wing and left hand palming down on the rock. I cammed my right foot in the crack and wiggled my way up a few feet.  I was then able to place a #2 Camalot and then quickly after that a #4 Camalot.

From there I placed a #5 Camalot and walked it for a little ways.  After that I placed a #6 and walked it for most of the top section.  The section where I placed a #5 and #6 is mosly heel/toe and much more mellow than the first offwidth section.

Once you get near the top you can do one of two things.  You can traverse over (climbers left) to the sling anchor on “Coffin Crack” or build a seperate anchor above.

If you “enjoy” offwidth climbing, I highly recommend “By Gully”.  This route will make you work for it, but when you get to the top, it is well worth the struggle.

Note: Wear long sleeves and knee pads.  It takes the pain down a bit.

Colorado Mountain School Guides can guide this route if you are interested.  If you have any questions, give us a call.

Thanks,

E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
800-836-4008


Weekly Monday Gear Review: Black Diamond Key Chain Bottle Opener

Picture this: I’m sitting down trying to open a bottle of brew with no luck at all. When all of a sudden an angel sent from Heaven above comes out from the fog. That angel was a Black Diamond rep. He hands me this fine piece of hand crafted steel and says, “Here you go man. I hope you get some use out of it.” In my hand is the Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener. Clearly a gift from God.

Flash forward a couple years. I still have the bottle opener and it has seen its fair share of bottle tops. The Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener is one of the greatest tools that I own. Not only is it a great key-chain but, get this, it is also a great bottle opener. How many of you can say you’ve got something that does that. This little device doesn’t take up much room in your pocket and it doesn’t hang too low when the keys are in the ignition. But don’t think less of it because of its small size, it packs quite a punch. I have yet to find a bottle it can’t open.

Well….when I mean a bottle, I mean a beer bottle or something similar. This thing doesn’t open water bottles. That’s impossible.

Anyways, this versatile little tool is just half of the Black Diamond nut tool. Some of you reading this might say, “Hey I already have a BD nut tool. Can’t I just use that then?” We’ll sure you can. But let me answer your question with a question. How are you going to fit it in your pocket? How are you going to press the gas pedal when it is jabbing you in the leg?

Don’t be a fool. Avoid bulky pockets and bruised legs. Purchase the compact Black Diamond key-chain/bottle opener. I give it 5 stars and I know you will too.

PS: I’m not positive that it’s hand crafted or made out of steel. But who really cares.

To find out how you can get your hands on this and other great Black Diamond products, please visit the Black Diamond homepage.

E.J. Nogaski
Colorado Mountain School
enogaski@totalclimbing.com
800-836-4008 x3


Red Rocks! Vegas, Baby!

Rocktober is just around the corner!  Where are you going to get your send on?  Red Rocks!  Vegas, baby!  Could you think of a better fall destination for a brief climbing trip?!  As things start to get frosty on long routes at elevation in Colorado, the desert is just starting to get into prime time!

I have returned to Red Rocks again and again… to work… to play… to train… to CLIMB!  Situated right outside of Las Vegas, Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area is a world class destination.  It is one of my favorite spots due to the immense volume and variety of climbing- excellent sport or trad climbing, world class lengthy multi-pitches, sun or shade, crack or face.  There are plenty of hard routes in Red Rocks, but it is particularly noted for having exceptional long moderate outings, with enjoyably sustained climbing of just the difficulty to meet any climber at the level they are at.  

Want a mellow, but enjoyably steep outing?  Bing, Cat in the Hat, with six pitches of 5.6 going up the stunning formation that is Mescalito.  Want to climb a route that takes all the juice you’ve got and all the light of the day?  Boom, Epinephrine, considered by many to to be the best 5.9 in the country, sucking you in with a monstrous 13 pitches.  Don’t be scared off by rumors of endless chimneying- there are plenty of splitter cracks and endless corner systems in there too.  There are also many high quality cragging spots to work on your climbing or leading techniques and to rest your legs for the next big day out.      

One of the all time classics is the six pitch 5.8, Frogland, situated at the mouth of the astounding Black Velvet Canyon.  This climb has it all, pitch after pitch, with high end crack climbing, face climbing and corner climbing with a very cool tunnel through up high.  Oh, sooo good!  Below are some of the photos from a vertical adventure I had on it with two happy clients.

Colorado Mountain School has permits from October 22-31.  There are limited spots available, so please call the office now if you want secure a spot.  The friendly staff working in the office are happy to answer your questions and work with you to cater to your needs.  You can also learn more online here.

See you out there!

Rainbow Weinstock
Colorado Mountain School Guide


New Coreblaster Schedule

The summer temperatures are high and folks are cooling off at the lake.  How does you core look in your swimsuit?  Tone up with COREBLASTERS with Jess Elliot on Fridays at Noon.  Monday’s Coreblaster Class is currently on hold, but will resume shortly. 

Get your chiseled abs today!

New Routes & Cool Temps!

Climbers are cranking, and the air conditioning is too!  Six new routes went up this morning, and problems in  the expansion boulding cave will be revamped on Wednesday.  Come on in and cool off.  We have free group fitness classes and yoga for all BRC members and day pass holders!

He Did It!

Just wanted to give a round of applause to one of our route setters:
Jonathan Siegrist

His most recent accomplishment is at Smith Rocks, on ‘Just Do It’ (5.14c)… Well he just did it!
Check out the news flash at Climbing Magazine Online.
or check out his blog posts at:


A-B-C, 5-1-3

We at the BRC have known for a long time that Stefan Lavender, and the rest of the ABC crew have super-human strength.  They proved themselves in February by taking first place at the ABS Nationals competition.  Team ABC member Stefan Lavender drew some well-deserved attention recently by firing five routes between 5.13a and 5.13d in just one week at Tensleep Canyon – and he’s only 13 years old!  Check out Rock and Ice or Dead Point Magazine for the story, or better yet, read it Stefan’s own words on his blog.  Congratulations Stefan!

Best for Boulder for 2011

The Boulder Rock Club was voted the Best of Boulder for 2011. We are proud to have received this award for seven years straight. Thank you! We love the amazing community in Boulder and we can’t thank you enough.
Cheers to another great year ahead!


23 Feet Film Tour Comes To Boulder May 6

23 Feet Trailer from Allie Bombach on Vimeo.

The Boulder premiere of 23 Feet will be at the Boulder Rock Club on May 6, 2011 at 7p.m. Beer and food will be provided at the event. Bring your favorite camping chair, yoga mat, climbing pad — anything you’ll be comfortable sitting on — and join us for an outdoor movie!

23 Feet is film about a community of people who have made the conscious choice to live simply in order to do what they love in the great outdoors. Three women set out across the west in their 23-foot-long, 1970 Airstream to search for the stories of people who have turned their backs on the creature comforts of society to live in school buses, vans, and other small spaces. From an inspiring campfire chat with legendary Yosemite climber Ron Kauk, to hearing the powerful story of a woman who changed her whole life for surfing, 23 Feet gives an intimate look at the ups and downs of dedicating your life to your outdoor passion.


Bean Fever

Join us next week to support Bean and his family at Avery Brewing in Boulder. It’s going to be an amazing night. Come one, come all!
April 28th, 2011 6:30pm
For more information on Bean, the event and how to help check out: www.beanfever.com

Cry in the Dojo Warmup

Hey all,

Check out the warmup that we do in the Cry in the Dojo series of classes here at the BRC. It is pretty general and works well for the classes as well as a general warmup for climbing. I do about 20-30 repetitions (about a minute) for each exercise.
—-WARNING!—-ATTENTION!—-HEADS UP!!!!!—-
This is exercise. Exercise, much like leaving your bed in the morning is NOT SAFE! Please take responsibility for your well being and think before you act. And if you want to play it safe, consult with a health professional before you start ANY new exercise program.

Congratulations to Team BRC and Team ABC in their bid at ABS Nationals

The American Bouldering Series (ABS) National was just held in Boulder Colorado last week. We would like to congratulate both Team BRC and Team ABC on a successful comp. Below are the individual team results.
A huge effort by all the kids and the coaches!
Team BRC
Remi Arata 6th
Mark Benz 18th
Emily Ringoen 21st
Katelyn Hudspeth 25th
Check out the Video!
Team ABC
#1 as a Team (in Team Competition Category)

Under 11
Joe Goodacre-2
Liam O’Brien-15
Ray McVicker-19

Under 11
Brooke Raboutou-2
Stella Noble-5
Ariana O’Brien-7
Mia Manson-9
Ravelle Nelson-10

12-13
Shawn Raboutou-4
Malcolm Oliver-9
Finn Stack-10
Timmy Dolan-16

12-13
Margo Hayes-1
Isabelle Goodacre-2
Ivy Todd -20

14-15
Austin Lankford-12
Stefan Lavender-19
Nick Lyon-26

14-15
Megan Mascarenas-2
Laurel Todd-6

16-17
Lily Ridgley-9

Team ABC receives First Place in the Team Category

Boulder Climbing Community Winter Event: Feb 17th

Join us February 17th 7pm at the Boulder Rock Club for the Boulder Climbing Community (BCC) Winter Event. Featured speakers include Jim Erickson, Daniel Woods and Timmy O’Neill.